Sewing Your Own Double Faced Quilted Fabric on a Baby Lock Destiny

Welcome dorsum to the Love of Sewing Challenge, hosted past Babe Lock and featuring the brand new Destiny II sewing and embroidery machine. In this mail service we're going to talk almost piecing quilts and using foot options to become an authentic 1/4″ seam allowance equally well as finishing the mini patchwork quilt from part 1.

Allow's talk well-nigh using sewing machine feet to get an accurate i/iv″ seam assart (which, as you know, is the gilt standard for quilt-piecing). Even if you lot don't ain this specific machine, many of these tips are universal for machine piecing.

First of all, allow's talk 1/4″ seam allowance, the universal seam allowance for piecing quilts. If you're coming over from a garment-sewing groundwork, a 1/four″ seam allowance can experience really narrow, just in the quilt world, it's standard for patchwork piecing. Another difference from garment sewing is that most seam allowances are pressed to i side, rather than pressed open. This is to help with wearable and tear on the quilt, keeping seams from splitting over time. There are times when pressing the seam open is more than practical, depending on the piecing techniques, simply this volition normally be addressed in the quilt blueprint or instructions. Most patterns will too accept pressing instructions, telling you which direction to press your seams, but if not, when in doubt, press toward the darker fabric.

Accuracy in your seam allowances is important when piecing quilts – specially when in that location are a lot of little pieces and seams coming together. It's very important to go along that seam allowance a consistent i/4″.

Ascant ane/4″ helps a lot with accurateness – specially when piecing small blocks, or blocks with multiple pieces. A scant one/four″ is merely what it sounds like, a seam allowance that is just slightly narrower than an exact 1/4″. Use a ruler to find out if your seam allowances is a scant i/4″. The seam for an accurate 1/iv″ seam allowance should run right under the 1/4″ line on a ruler. (Y'all tin can see the seam on the right is slightly wider than an exact 1/four″). This will bear upon your piecing and the finished size of your block if you are putting multiple parts together. The seam for a scant 1/iv″ seam allowance is a couple of threads over and should run only inside the 1/four″ line on a ruler when lined up adjacent to the edge of your fabric (see seam on the left). The bulk of the time when I am piecing quilt blocks, I sew together with a scant 1/4″.

If you are simply piecing patchwork squares where all of the blocks are the same size, a 1/4″ vs a scant i/4″ doesn't make a difference.

Learn about your sewing machine and what pes and setting options you have to help you go that consistent ane/iv″ seam assart. The Destiny Ii comes with two feet that I utilise most – the J foot is the basic all-around pes zipper. The foot on the right is the 1/4″ Human foot with Seam Guide.

Using a 1/4″ foot with a seam guide will assistance with the accuracy of your seams because equally you run the edges of your pieces through, the metal flange volition serve equally a guide to keep your seams from getting likewise wide. Even though this human foot is a "direct-stitch foot" (meaning at that place is a single narrow hole for the needle to pass through – non a wide opening for decorative stitches) there is enough room to move the needle ane or two notches to the right to give you a scant 1/iv″ seam. This will bring the needle just a thread or 2 closer to the border of the cloth. (Ever examination by manually rotating the needle through the foot earlier using the pedal, just to make sure the needle isn't over likewise far and volition hit the metal human foot.) This human foot is also available (to buy separately) without the flange where you can employ the side of the foot as your guide. One thing I dear about Baby Lock machines is that the foot attachments are reasonably priced, making it easier to add to your foot capabilities and selection.

I like to utilize the 1/4″ foot with seam guide when I'one thousand piecing blocks – specially for minor or complex patchwork where the accuracy of the seam allowance can make a big difference in how the corners and pieces match upwards.

The J foot is the commonsensical foot that comes with the motorcar. It is a broad foot with a broad opening for the needle to cross back and forth for decorative or zigzag stitches. Considering the foot is wide, the distance from the needle to the right edge of the foot is larger than a ane/4″ inch. That makes it really helpful for seeing the space surrounding your needle. However, using settings inside the motorcar, you still utilize the edge of the foot as an accurate guide. First of all, you lot tin can adjust the needle closer to the right border of the pes to get a 1/4″ seam allowance. (Use a ruler to double-check the accuracy of your seam.)

At that place are also settings inside the Q-stitch menu where the machine will automatically adjust your needle position to ready information technology ane/4″ away from the right side OR left side of the J foot. Circled is Q-02 – this will automatically move your needle 1/four″ away from the right side of the foot. This is super handy for times yous don't desire a human foot with a flange or guide, such equally when you're sewing over lots of seams that could go caught on the guide or sewing over bulkier fabrics.

Some other characteristic I beloved for chain-piecing is the square on the bottom left that is highlighted in orange. When this setting is on, the needle drops and the foot lifts automatically when you lot pull your foot off the pedal. This makes it super easy to slide the next pieces, ready to sew, upwards against the needle. When you press the sewing machine pedal, the foot drops and you can keep to run up.

Some other time I prefer the J foot is when I'm sewing beyond my pieces, rather than using the border every bit a guide, such as when I'm making Half Square Triangles (HST's). Also, see that fancy laser axle projecting out in front of the presser foot? That comes in super handy for piecing HST'south and I'll be talking nigh it beneath.

Let'southward talk about basic piecing. For the project I introduced in part 1 we'll be piecing three sets of 2″ x ii″ patchwork squares – first into 3 sets of two rows each for the side and bottom borders. Then we'll be piecing eight pinwheel blocks made up of one-half-foursquare triangles. I'll be showing another feature on the Destiny Two that brand half-square triangles a snap.

For this projection you lot need:

•  center embroidery portion squared up to 9 1/2″ ten 11″
• 46 2″ ten ii″ patchwork squares
• 32 2 one/2″ x two one/two″ squares (sixteen light and 16 colored) to create pinwheel blocks
• 20″ x 23″ piece of batting
• 22″ x 25″ backing
• 2 strips two one/4″ x 42″ for binding

(more info most the fabric I used in Part ane)

From ii″ x ii″ squares brand two sets of eight squares x 2 rows and i fix of vii squares x two rows.

In each row, press all seams to ane side. For each row, alternating which direction the seams go. This will help you match-up all the points of the patchwork squares when you stitch the two rows together because the seams will butt-upwardly against each other. This also helps reduce majority.

Pinwheel blocks – Make 8 blocks using this method:

Match-up two sets of matching print two 1/2″ x 2 one/2″ squares with ii white 2 one/two″ x two one/2″ squares. I traditionally make two one-half-square triangle (HST) blocks at once matching two different squares right-sides together.

Typically, to make two Half-Square Triangle blocks at in one case, I would draw a diagonal line on the back of my half my squares and sew a seam a 1/4″ away from both sides of the drawn line. Using the built in light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation-guide beam, I can project that beam onto my textile and employ it equally a guide, running the bottom corner of the squares up along the guide. The light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation beam is centered when y'all first turn it on. But like the needle, it has the capacity to shift left or right.

If I was sewing 1, centered diagonal line downward the centre of my matched-up squares, I would leave the laser guide in place. Since I am sewing two seams 1/iv″ away on either side of a heart line, I volition move the guide over to the right 1/4″. (See orangish circle on diagram higher up.)

Later on both seams are sewn, cut the one-half-square triangle on the center diagonal. Open up up and press seams toward the darker print fabric. Now you lot will have 2 identical Half-Square Triangle blocks. At this point it is important to trim the triangle tags and square up the blocks to ii″ x 2″ – gather into sets of 4 HST blocks to create the pinwheel. It seems irksome, but it's so of import for accurate piecing. Here's my favorite curt-cut for squaring-upwardly Half-Foursquare Triangles.

One time you accept four 2″ x 2″ HST blocks, rotate them in a pinwheel blueprint. Sew together into two rows and press seams in contrary directions. And then sew two rows together to finish the pinwheel block. This should measure 3 1/two″ ten 3 1/two″ unfinished (three″ ten iii″ finished, in one case they're all sewn into the quilt.)

Sew together 6 pinwheel blocks to create ane row. Sew remaining pinwheel blocks to either side of ii x 7 patchwork strip.

Terminal Assembly

Square-up middle embroidered panel to ix 1/two″ ten eleven″. (More on creating embroidered panel in Function i.)

Sew 2 gold-stripe 1 i/two″ ten xi″ strips to left and right sides. Press seams away from center panel. Sew 1 1/ii″ x eleven i/ii″ gold-stripe strips to summit and bottom. Printing seams away from center console.

Sew together two patchwork 2 x viii units to either side of the heart console. Press seams toward aureate-stripe.

Stitch patchwork sides to center portion – press toward center.

Sew tiptop and bottom rows – pinwheels and pinwheels + patchwork. Press seams toward middle panel.

Layer pieced quilt tiptop, batting, and backing. (Here are some tips for prepping a quilt sandwich.) Quilt however you prefer. I used the Dual-Feed human foot attachment and quilted int wide, wavy lines. (Come across Pat Sloan'due south postal service for more information on preparing and quilting.)

Once you lot're finished quilting, trim and square-off the edges. Info on finishing and bounden a quilt here.

For more helpful tips on maximizing your stitching as well as visuals of some of the processes mentioned above, check out this video:

It has been so dreamy to get to work with this auto and learn more virtually information technology's features forth with the other posts that are part of the Honey of Sewing challenge. That said, I know information technology'due south a "bucket-list" auto (information technology was for me!). If you're just getting started in the globe of sewing or looking for your first upgrade, check out the range of other Infant Lock machines. My honest review is that I can't say enough good things about my experience using Baby Lock machines. And they run the total gamut from entry level machines right upwards to the deluxe Destiny. If you're just getting started, check out the Rachel. For mid-level upgrades, I recommend checking out the Jazz and Lyric. This mail service by Dana is really helpful talking about how to selection a sewing automobile. Definitely visit a local dealer to find out which automobile is fits your needs and budget best. The best office virtually buying from a dealer is that not only are they super helpful with maintenance and helping yous learn how to get the most out of your car, but they're also willing to exchange your current auto when you are prepare to upgrade!

Thank you so much for playing along. Hopefully you've learned some new piecing tips today and other helpful tips and techniques forth the way. Thank you for letting me be role of the challenge Baby Lock!

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Source: https://www.diaryofaquilter.com/for-the-love-of-sewing-machine-feet-options/

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